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RACELOGIC TRACTION CONTROL INSTALL 
Install time: about 2-4 hours
Tools needed:
1) soldering iron and solder (or crimping tool and non-insulated 20-22 gauge crimps)
2) wire cutters/stripper
3) 10mm socket
4) flathead and #2 phillips screwdrivers
5) electric tape/heat shrink
6) multimeter (optional, but highly recommended)
7) double sided tape or velcro
8) utility knife
9) drill IMPORTANT NOTES… READ FIRST!
- This is a relatively easy installation. If you know how to use a screwdriver and can solder or crimp 2 wires
together, you can install this unit. These instructions are very long, but that's only because I was very
detailed about the simplest things (like how to splice, etc.)… so, don't be scared by the length. Read
through the instructions in its entirety before starting. - There are four main steps in this install…
1) Splice the ECU wires.
2) Splice the ABS sensor wires.
3) Mount the dials/switches.
4) Calibrate the unit and adjust your settings. - Take your time and make sure all your electrical connections have good continuity after each soldering
joint by using your multimeter (set on resistance) with the probes on either side of the solder joint (i.e. one
probe at the pin of the harness connector and the other about an inch past the solder joint).
- Wires which are multi-colored are denoted as follows… "main color/stripe", such that "white/green"
means a white wire with a green stripe.
- The pin number of a specific wire is indicated in parentheses after the color wire. For example,
white/green (8) means the white wire with a green stripe that is connected to pin number 8 of the harness
connector. - Be sure to cover all exposed wires with electrical tape or heat shrink after soldering/crimping. - Abbreviations used: ECU= electronic control unit (the brains of the car), ABS= antilock braking system - If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail us…
Bernie: bhsiao@newssun.med.miami.edu
Orion: zttnut@yahoo.com 1) DISCONNECT BATTERY
Use a deep 10mm socket or wrench to disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery (the black cable). 2) SPLICE ECU WIRES
A.Access the ECU which is located under the passenger floorboard by removing the floormat,
pulling back the top part of the carpet, unscrewing the four 10mm bolts that hold the wooden panel, and
removing the wooden panel. For more detailed instructions and pics, see the FAQ for instructions on
running an ECU diagnostic. B. Disconnect the ECU by unscrewing the three 10mm bolts that hold it in place. Then, remove the
harness from the ECU by unscrewing the 10mm bolt in the middle of the blue connector and pulling the
connector out from the ECU. C. Cut away some of the black insulation around the wires and using the diagram below, locate the
6 fuel injector wires (green circles).
 D. You can use the multimeter set on "resistance" to make sure you have the right wires. Put one
probe into the ECU connector and the other on the cut wire. If you have zero ohms showing (means that
there is continuity), then that is the correct wire. E. Cut the fuel injector wire and connect the Racelogic wires to either end.
NOTE: Do NOT splice the Racelogic wires into the intact fuel injector wire. You must
CUT the stock fuel injector wire. By connecting the Racelogic wires to either end, it allows the signal to go
from the ECU to the Racelogic unit, and then from the Racelogic unit to the injectors (as shown in the
diagram below). Thus, the Racelogic unit essentially "intercepts" the ECU signals before they go to the
injectors. You can connect the wires in one of three ways… 1) solder them, 2) crimp them, or 3) use the
included male/female pins and plastic connectors to make your own connectors. If you choose option 3),
then make sure you have the proper crimp tool ($5-10 from Radio Shack). Making your own connector is
convenient if you ever need to take your Racelogic unit out (that way, you can just snap the injector wires
back together), but it is more time consuming and easier to mess up if you don't have the right crimp tool.
Make sure you put a female connector and a male connector on the injector wires and the correct ones on
the Racelogic harness!
 - Connect the following 12 wires together… these are the ones going from the ECU to the
Racelogic unit. wire from ECU(pin#) TO wire going to Racelogic unit
Inj.1 white (101) TO red
Inj.2 white/green (110) TO orange
Inj.3 white/red (103) TO grey
Inj.4 white/black (112) TO green
Inj.5 blue (105) TO yellow
Inj.6 white/blue (114) TO pink - Next, connect the following 12 wires together… these are the ones going from the Racelogic unit
to the fuel injectors… wire from Racelogic unit TO wire to fuel injector
Inj.1 red/black TO white
Inj.2 orange/black TO white/green
Inj.3 grey/black TOwhite/red
Inj.4 green/black TO white/black
Inj.5 yellow/black TO blue
Inj.6 pink/black TO white/blue F. Splice the RPM wire.
Splice the black/white Racelogic wire into the yellow/red (7) ECU harness wire (pink square in wiring
diagram above) by removing a little bit of insulation from the yellow/red wire to expose bare wire and solder
the black/white wire to it. NOTE: Here we are splicing into the INTACT wire… NOT cutting it
like we did for the injector wires. G. Splice the 12V ignition switched power supply.
Splice the red Racelogic wire into the white (109) ECU wire (red square in wiring diagram above). Again,
do NOT cut the white wire, just remove some insulation and connect the Racelogic wire to the bare wire.
H. Ground the unit.
Bolt the double black wire with the ring terminal to a suitable ground. I found a few nuts above and to the
right of the ECU that I simply undid, slipped the ring terminal over, and retightened the nut over it. Do
NOT try to attach the ground to a painted area.
3) SPLICE THE ABS CONNECTIONS
A) Locate the ABS unit.
- The ABS unit is behind the passenger seat. To access it, unscrew the two phillips screws that are outlined
in green in the picture below, also unscrew the two that the green arrows are pointing to. (They're covered
by little black covers that you can flip up with the flathead screwdriver).
- Prop up the center section and remove the last screw as shown below.
 - Pop out the two plastic gromits outlined in green below on the left side of the panel and prop the panel up.
(I used my CLUB anti-theft device to prop up mine).
 B) Remove the ABS harness connector and splice in sensor wires. - In order to remove the blue connector, 1)pull down on the metal tab and 2)pull the bottom of the
connector out as shown below.
 - Cut away some of the black insulation about an inch or two from the blue plastic connector. Locate the
following wires which connect to the ABS connector. Again, it's best to use a multimeter to make sure you
have the right wire going to the right pin.
Bernie
The Phoenix stirs from its deep slumber... |
First TECH for new forum: RACELOGIC traction control install - 
